Gilda (1946)

Rita Hayworth set the standard by which all femme fatales are judged in Gilda. Manipulative, tortured and sexy, the titular Gilda is caught up in a love triangle where she fears and despises both men all while driving them both crazy. This film has all the usual twists, backstabs and cigarette smoke that define the genre, but it also poses a difficult challenge for this blog: It’s hard to focus on what the men are wearing when the whole production wants you ogling Rita Hayworth.

But I’ll try my best.

Dumbstruck man (right): robe, white ascot

I really will.

It was customary in the 40s for a man to wrap himself up in a thick wall of wool. The amount of wool determined a man’s status and viability as a reproductive mate. The shoulderpads were thick and wide. Pants sat an inch or two below the nipples and more than doubled the circumference of a man’s legs. Stripes weren’t just common; they were bold. And it was a hell of a look.

Glenn Ford (left): Chalk-striped double breasted suit in charcoal, solid tie, pocket square in crown style. Mustachioed guy (right): Slightly darker gray chalk-striped double breasted suit, polka dot tie and pocket square folded in same style.

There’s just one problem for people trying to recreate this look today: These suits just aren’t in style right now. Modern suits are slim. The pants sit low and they’re tight enough that everyone will know just which leg you tucked your junk into. Ties are long, slim and have relatively dull patterns. It’s hard to look like Glenn Ford in this flick without hanging out at vintage clothing stores in hope that someone your size managed to keep the moths away for 70 years.

Glenn Ford: Double-breasted navy pinstripe suit with pleated pants, dark solid tie, white shirt and silver suspenders.

You can get close. Double-breasted suits always tend to have a more retro vibe to them—although the bottom-button ones that pop up in Gilda haven’t been popular since Frasier went into syndication. Navy pinstripes is a timeless look that you’ll always be able to find. (You’re really going to have to hit up a vintage store or yournecktieshop.com if you want one of those nifty 40s ties though.)

Glenn Ford: Double-breasted tuxedo with peak lapels, black bow tie, cool ass cane.